Here, there, inşallah - everywhere. A flare explodes in the crowd, painting the chanting and shouting faces with a red glow. Cell phones reach to record the spectacle. Nearby, young men sell beer out of commandeered shopping carts. A greasy fellow offers salt-rimmed tequila shots from a makeshift stand not too far away. Protestors toot rebelliously from miniature vuvuzelas, oddly, colored after the German flag. Gives my voice a frog-like timbre.

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